The city in the evening
the historic part is in the foreground and the more modern part characterizes the background
the historic part is in the foreground and the more modern part characterizes the background
...and the same spot at night
Imagine, if all the city lights were actually stars and the sky was a country landscape, it would look like this:
Anyway, today I went with a group of students north of Grenoble to Chambery for a little breakfast and then Annecy for the late morning and afternoon. Chambery was very calm when we got there seeing how it was a Saturday morning. The vendors selling antiques at the flea market were just setting up their tables of old postcards, pottery, and various furniture. We were in Chambery long enough to walk through the market, see an elephant fountain, and sit at a cafe munching on a nice pain au chocolat.
Let me just go on a tangent and discuss the beauty of pain au chocolat. For everyone who doesn't know, it is basically, but not simply, a croissant wrapped around little two or three little bars of chocolate. It is not a simple thing, pain au chocolat, because the experience of a pain au chocolat is a complex. The enjoyment is about the place you are in, the company you are with (even if it is a newspaper), how fresh it is, and the quality of the ingredients used to make it. Enjoying a pain au chocolat from Monoprix on the tram is an entirely different experience than enjoying one in a cafe with a cup of coffee. Another great thing about pain au chocolat is that is it low calorie, just like all the food in France. Wait...
Let me just go on a tangent and discuss the beauty of pain au chocolat. For everyone who doesn't know, it is basically, but not simply, a croissant wrapped around little two or three little bars of chocolate. It is not a simple thing, pain au chocolat, because the experience of a pain au chocolat is a complex. The enjoyment is about the place you are in, the company you are with (even if it is a newspaper), how fresh it is, and the quality of the ingredients used to make it. Enjoying a pain au chocolat from Monoprix on the tram is an entirely different experience than enjoying one in a cafe with a cup of coffee. Another great thing about pain au chocolat is that is it low calorie, just like all the food in France. Wait...
Antique silverware at the market in Chambery
We arrived to Annecy and thus one of the most interesting experiences yet for me in France. Today was the "Fete des Alpages," an annual festival that marks the end of the harvest season. It was a very nice introduction to autumn, and I now I am considerably happy with the change in season. The first greeting I got was from a pen of brown cows with huge bells around their necks and a vendor selling cow bells of every size. Also, there were masses of people, and by masses, I mean that it was difficult to walk through endless streets of vendors. As I made my way into the crowded street, I was astonished by all of the local artisan work. There was so much beautiful food, music, and crafts like I have never seen or heard before! It was so amazing. Most vendors were also dressed in traditional alpine or countryside attire.
Oh, the masses
Artisan crafts included: cow bells, painted ceramic figures, baskets, wood carvings, pottery, hats, sweaters, lace, scarves, paintings, taxidermy (yes, it is true), jewelry, Christmas ornaments, flowers, wool, and so much more!! Everything was handmade and a lot of vendors were fabricating their products at the market. For example, I saw people making lace, spinning wool, painting, and throwing pottery. Also, one vendor was selling different types of chickens and bunnies.Cow bells for sale!
You could take your picture with the local breed of dog the St. Bernard Shepherd with a donation to charity
Music included: lots of accordion players, a few people singing, and people playing those long wooden bell shaped instruments that I think are Austrian (they actually sound super cool). The sound of the market was very defining, even outside of music from instruments. People spoke lots of different languages, there were chickens, pigs, dogs, and cows making their respective noises, and the sound of the vendors dishing out tartiflette (I will get to this), pressing apples, sawing wood, and the sounds of all the people strolling the streets.
Trying to get through the crowd around these accordion players was a difficult task because there were so many people. If you love people, come to Annecy for the Fete des Alpages!
Food, of course, is a very important thing in France. Regions take pride in the different types of local dishes, cheeses, and wine that is made there. Food for sale included: countless types of sausage, HUGE wheels of cheese (countless types as well), honey, cider pressed at the market, tartiflette (a popular local dish with a specific cheese, ham, potatoes, and onions), diot (a regional sausage), pizza, wine, pastries, apples, bread, and more. There were various vendors selling each of the mentioned food.
Women rolling out dough that was later deep fried. A lot of people were munching on the final product. In the background, people were deep frying the dough and pressing apples to make cider.
A young vendor discussing honey with some curious customers. Can you see the box of live honeybees?
When it comes to tartiflette, people get aggressive. This was only one batch that they sold. You wouldn't want to be around when they ran out.
Diot de Savie, a regional sausage. I ate one of these on top of polenta. It was indescribably delicious.
After a couple hours at the market, a small group of us made our way to a Baroque cathedral, a sharp contrast to the noisy, colorful market.
Plants crawling up the buildings was already turning a bright red for fall, this was on the way to the cathedral
Baroque cathedral. A perfect day for the festival and a visit to a quiet cathedral
But of course, when we left the quiet of the cathedral, there was a parade of people with animals, carts, and instruments were making their way through hoards of people who lined the street. It was literally impossible to get anywhere, and the parade lasted a couple hours. This woman is leading a group of goats that made a pleasant clanking as they walked from the bells they were wearing.
The procession of goats through the crowds of people
A little girl leading a small pony in the parade
The canal off of the lake
Clear lake water, boats, and mountains
One last thing: I made and exciting purchase this week at a bookstore in downtown Grenoble: a map of France!!!!! I love France! I love maps! Perfect.
Catie I loved your post!! It sounded awesome! I also think coming to Grenoble for Christmas would be really fun, because it looks so beautiful from all your pictures!!
ReplyDeleteCatie, it all sounds wonderful. I'm happy that you're having a great time!
ReplyDeleteGIANT CHEESE WHEELS!!!
ReplyDeleteYES YES YES!!!!! I absolutely love grenoble, and I think it is the perfect place to spend christmas! motion passed!!it looks so amazing!!!
ReplyDeleteOh my gosh the clear water and mountains... I could not be more jealous that is so beautiful! The festival sounded like so much fun, I love the festivals in Europe. In Granada this last Sunday there was little and festival and parade through the streets just because.
ReplyDeletethis is so cool! everything is so big. (the dog, the gratuitous amount of tartiflette (what?) and sausage)
ReplyDelete